Database: The Importance of Tea

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Although the tea plant grew wild in the archipelago, the custom of drinking tea spread to court aristocracy during the Nara period. The court even required some provinces to pay their taxes with tea leaves. The monk Eisai (1141–1215), founder of the Rinzai school in Japan, brought a new kind of tea that could be consumed after brewing. Tea became popular among the monks, who eventually grew tea near some of the larger monasteries. By the 14th century, the practice was so widespread that it led to an increase in tea production. Chaya (tea houses) were established along the roads or near religious sites for pilgrims, where travelers were served tea, sometimes with rice cakes.

From then on, dual tea traditions were born. Wealthy warriors entertained in large, well-decorated halls. They played tasting-games, where guests could win magnificent gifts if they correctly guessed the tea's origin. Meanwhile, working-class tea gatherings were more friendly and informal, often accompanied by a feast. These casual events (yoriai) became quite popular among the upper-middle class in cities like Sakai and Kyoto in the 15th and 16th centuries.

The great tea masters who succeeded Nōami (1397–1471), Murata Shoko (1423–1502), Takeno Jō'ō (1502–1555), then Sen no Rikyū (1522–1591), elevated and formalized these events into an aesthetic ideal, combining fellowship with observance of the rules. Tea equipment became a popular collectable among wealthy connoisseurs. In fact, the best gift one could give to Oda Nobunaga to win his favor was a rare piece used for tea.